Savouring Siena – The Pasta Grannies’ food tour of the soulful city

At the mere mention of Siena, my husband dad-dances round the kitchen telling everyone for the umpteenth time that he is a member of the Contrada dell’Oca or Goose Contrada.  

Contrade are a way of divvying up civic pride, intensifying the competition over who represents the town, city, or village best. They are the Italian equivalent of parishes. And famously in Siena, the contrade compete in the yearly Palio, a horse race that takes place round Piazza del Campo each August. For an introduction to the history and pageantry, visit one – or several – of the Contrade museums; each has its own character. Contrada della Lupa (she-wolf) has fabulous frescos, while Contrada Dell’Oca is in a converted warehouse owned by the father of Saint Catherine. All display drappellone – the painted banners awarded to the winning Contrada.  

Nights at overflowing tables

The best meal to experience is one on the eve of the Palio. All the districts taking part in the race gather leaders, residents, guests – and even lucky tourists – for dinner in honour of the protagonists of the jousts. But if you’re not visiting in July or August when the Palio is galloping in full flight, there’s still plenty of great food on offer including a few historic trattorias where you can taste the city’s traditional dishes.  

Trattoria La Torre is in an excellent location: just beneath the Torre del Mangia in Piazza del Campo. The atmosphere is historic and informal, and there are very few tables, so be prepared to queue, go early or share a table. The menu is short but less is definitely more delicious. Order the pici pasta with wild boar, or the ravioli with sheep’s ricotta, butter and sage to start. There’s roast guinea fowl and patate alla fattoressa, a potato dish made with tomato and onion, for your secondi. Livia, my Granny Finder has been coming to this place for years. The menu doesn’t change but every time she goes, she tells me that it’s just as satisfying. 

Whoever named Osteria Grattacielo had a sense of humour. It means ‘skyscraper’ and it’s a tiny hole-in-the-wall establishment; the owners never miss the opportunity to serve up a good joke with a great plate of food. It can be hard to find except in the summer months when long dining tables are placed outside. Go for their antipasti of cured meats and cheese; it’s a perfect spot if you fancy opting for some lighter grazing and skipping a plate of pasta.  

Inside the city walls, it teams with tourists; take a stroll and ten minutes from Piazza del Campo, beyond the walls, you’ll find Osteria Nonna Gina, a family-run Sienese restaurant. It feels just like home. And for many families who live in the city, it is. Every day the menu is decided by their team and written by hand. With hearty pastas and generous portion sizes, it’s probably one to go to on a day you’re wearing your loosest trousers.  

If you want to go further afield, San Gimignano is the Instagram worthy (but don’t let that put you off) village to go, with its multiple medieval towers. There are several upmarket places to eat, but try Da Pode where the luxury comes from the views on their terrace; it’s essential to book in advance. This family run restaurant prides itself in ‘zero kilometre’ sourcing of its produce. During the autumn months their truffle-based dishes are not to be missed.  

Some days, wine doesn’t hit the spot and only a cocktail will do. Trefilari is an Aladdin’s cave of multi-hued bottles. Yes there’s wine, but the bartenders’ real passion is mixing a cocktail to suit you; you can come armed with a wish list of spirits from around the world, or put yourself into their hands (at the time of writing, they were shaking things up with Nicaraguan rum). Make sure someone else is doing the driving and then totter round to The Irishman. Eponymous Irishman, Kieran Patten, is so in love with Siena he decided to open an American style bar offering classic cocktails and serious beers (Guinness of course) alongside seriously good beef burgers and chicken sandwiches. 

The sweet spot

Sightseeing demands an ice cream, because calories while strolling don’t count, right? Make sure your wandering goes via Gelateria La Mandorla; my favourites are the almond and apricot granitas, they’re a bit like slushies for grown ups.  

You mustn’t miss panforte in this city, a sweetmeat associated with Christmas time but now enjoyed year-round and popular all over Italy. Dating back to medieval times, it’s a solid, chewy concoction of dried fruits and nuts welded together with molten sugar. Panpepato, the other traditional sweet treat from Siena, was created especially for Queen Margherita’s visit in 1879. Panpepato contains cocoa and is dusted in plenty of pepper making it panforte’s spicier, rustic cousin.  

Whichever takes your fancy, Antica Drogheria Manganelli 1879, located near to the Duomo, is the shop to go. It makes some of the best we’ve ever tasted. And if you like it so much you fancy trying it again at home, you can also buy the excellent spice mix to recreate this sweet in your own kitchen. 

Shop local

If you’re ready to pack your cases with more than just panforte spice ingredients there’s plenty of other shops to head to. In the centre, Consorzio Agrario d’Italia SpA which is like a little supermarket, sells top-notch local products from the Sienese and Aretine areas, Look for cheeses from the Crete Senesi or the Val d’Orcia; feast your eyes (and your belly) on cured meats from locally raised pigs produced using traditional methods, and fruit and vegetables from the Valdichiana. You can taste the items in store or buy a panini using the produce.  

Whisper it, I’m not a great fan of the unsalted Tuscan bread, but I still love Tuscan bakeries. My favourite in Siena is Il Magnifico, which sells an amazing walnut and raisin bread called pan co santi. This originally was only made for All Saints Day but is now made year-round. Try it with a slice of prosciutto, I love the sweet and savoury combination.  

Markets are my happy place! In Siena the weekly general market is held on Wednesdays in the Fortezza area. The farmers’ market is on Fridays. Get there early before the crowds.  

On a non-food note, I like to buy a plate or platter to remind me of my holidays. You’ll find plenty of ceramic shops dotted about the city, but check out Ceramiche Santa Caterina and Ceramiche San Bernadino for traditional, locally made pottery.  

Say cheese and wine!

The small family run dairy, Caseficio Val d’orcia, collects milk from local sheep farmers. Unlike some of the larger operations, they do things the old school way, mixing everything by hand and letting time do its thing. Thus the different styles of pecorino mature gently, allowing rich flavours to develop. They have a small shop where you can taste and buy.  

Is a trip to Tuscany complete without a glass of Chianti Classico? No, but actually, we can do better than that; why not stock up on some olive oil too? Felsina in Castelnuovo Berardenga combines two high-quality products in one visit. They offer tours and tasting, so you’ll have chance to sit between the vines or head down into the cellars. Let’s hope you have enough room in your suitcase. Now might be a good time to consider driving the car over, perhaps? 

Get cooking

Learning how to cook local recipes is a good way to extend the holiday and I’m often asked about cooking classes in Tuscany. There are loads of offerings to choose from as Tuscany has been welcoming tourists ever since the Grand Tour was a thing, several centuries ago. Friend Emiko Davies lives in San Miniato and offers classes and workshops; while Giulia Scarpaleggia runs Juls Kitchen. Writing about this has inspired me to plan another trip to Siena, so see you there! 

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