Good things come to those who wait. Negotiating a charming tangle of farm tracks to get here takes time, but when you reach this little Hansel and Gretel cottage in the far southwest (once an estate lodge) you’re rewarded with spectacular sea views. To the other side are ancient trees, open fields and the ruins of a 13th-century castle. But the biggest surprise is inside. Painstakingly rebuilt by owners Ella and Finn from a crumbling shell, Cruggleton Lodge is not your average country retreat. Step inside to find pale oak floors, thick contemporary rugs, a wood-burner in cream, shutters for every window, and white walls hung with striking prints and stag’s horns. A tree-branch stair rail takes you upward, to a beautifully tiled bathroom; a delicious white sleigh bed glowing in the sun; a smaller twin room with castle views. Cocoon yourself with iPod dock, DAB radio, books, or buy organic meat from the estate – the kitchen is super-equipped. You can walk along the cliffs to a sandy beach, hop in the car to shop or pub, return for a soak in the wood-fired hot tub. It’s fabulous.