St Davids is one of the most magical places in Britain. It sits in Pembroke’s national park, has an imperious 12th-century cathedral, and is surrounded by magnificent coastline that’s dotted with cliffs and vast sandy beaches. As for Janet’s wonderful retreat, it’s part chic hotel, part farmhouse B&B, stylish yet personal, a great place to stay. The house dates from 1120 and sits in 600 acres of arable and grazing land (they rear cattle and grow cereals). Outside, you find lawns and a small copse sprinkled with bluebells, then field and sky, and that’s about it. Inside, there’s an honesty bar in the sitting room and a Welsh dresser in the dining room, where Janet serves delicious food: homemade soups, home-reared beef, chocolate mousse with clotted cream. Fancy bedrooms are the big surprise: a vast four-poster, the odd copper bath, old armoires, beautiful fabrics. All have robes in gorgeous bathrooms, bigger rooms come with sofas, one room occupies most of the top floor. Two rooms in an old barn have exposed timbers and underfloor heating. The coast is about five fields to the west.
An exceptional Country House Hotel in every respect. Comfortable, very quiet, excellent food and well presented, very good value wine list, superb service.