Château d'Ortaffa

Medieval Ortaffa sits in a pocket of sunshine between the Pyrénées and the lively port of Collioure, and this big old winemaker’s château – once the Episcopal palace of the bishops, adjoined to historic residential buildings – perches on its ancient fortified walls.

Large French windows open to the terrace, where breakfast comes with a stunning tableau of mountains and sea with village rooftops tumbling below – tuck into fresh fruit, excellent breads and pastries, local honey and jams. It’s a beautifully restored house, luxurious and with a relaxed holiday feel, whose elegant, pastel-shaded library and guest rooms display your hosts’ love of antiques and fine art.

Your room may have Picasso prints, bookshelves, an antique child’s bed, or quirky graffiti in the loo; one beauty, in pale greys and blues, reveals remnants of the former chapel. Roll down to the port for seafood, slide south along the coast to Spain.