In the heart of the heart of Rome and stepping distance of Piazza Navona, duck down a tiny passage, through an arched door and into a 15th-century palazzo courtyard. The ground-floor studio apartment mixes New York loft cool with Renaissance flourishes: gilded portraits and family antiques, white walls and floors, sleek furnishings. Cleverly organised to offer modernity but comfort, the double-height room has a mezzanine-level bedroom where a brass bed and elegant chairs sit beneath a vaulted ceiling and a sofabed tucks in a corner. Two bright marble bathrooms – one within ancient brick spiral stairs – make stunning use of space. On the lower floor, a shiny, well-equipped kitchen slips seamlessly into a corner; elsewhere bright yellow cushions and a modish-styled sofa sit happily amongst gleaming antiques. Books, family photographs and china vases add warmth and homeliness. Pull out the nifty table to eat indoors or mix with the locals in the street’s trattorias and bakeries; the smell of fresh bread reaches your front door… It doesn’t get much better.