Casale Bonaparte

A dirt road flanked by cypress cuts through the Lazio Maremma – a landscape shaped by centuries of olive farming. The old hunting lodge has changed little since 1610, aside from the lovely new swimming pool and tasting pavilion. Napoleon liked this country palace so much he sequestered it for his brother; the Bonaparte crest is still carved above the entrance.

There’s an easy, relaxed atmosphere within these thick walls, filled with antiques and grand open hearths. Four bedrooms lead off the intimate sitting room, gather here for cocktails. The apartment has a separate entrance and small kitchen, if you want a bit more privacy.

In spring and summer, amble down to the garden for a superb breakfast spread of farm produce – pastries, preserves, cheeses and fresh coffee. Don’t miss a tasting with owner and olive oil expert Simona; visit Etruscan ruins and hot spring spas, or request a light lunch by the pool.