Lucca’s amphitheatre was built on Roman remains and, for two centuries, houses were built organically into its ancient walls. The first storey of three such houses comprises this small B&B – woven into one they make an irresistible whole – and if the position is special then the place itself is even more so, thanks to the generosity and graciousness of your hosts. Alex and Livia love their new enterprise and go out of their way to make your stay perfect. All is warm, elegant and cosy inside… original terracotta floor tiles beautifully waxed, pictures prettily hung, ceiling beams gloriously chunky. An old stone sink planted with succulents defines the reception space, a coffee table is laden with travel books, striped armchairs wait to be sunk into, and two little tables are laid with breakfast’s fresh fruits and homemade cakes, pastries and jams. Soundproofed bedrooms are at the front or the slightly larger back, two with balconies facing the piazza, all with air con and sweet bathrooms. Stay a week; for history, beauty, music, churches, and the lovely seaside from Cinque Terre to the Maremma.