For four generations, Eleanora’s family have watched the gondolas and singing gondoliers glide by this bright palazzo opposite the Teatro La Fenice. No one really knows the age of the house, but it’s surely 15th century judging by the frescoes, marble stairs, stucco and floors alla Veneziana. Old world luxury meets new in three canal-facing bedrooms: colourful fabric on antique chairs, headboards, framed prints, sleek reading lights and iron bedsteads with stacks of pillows and new bed line. One room opts for the red velvety cube-style armchairs and a gold-framed mirror. The Green Room might just be the prettiest, and a glimpse through ephemeral curtains sees white cushions playfully fastened to an iron bedstead… all beneath a chandelier and eventually sliding onto the terrazzo floors of a state-of-the-art bathroom. That’s what works here: it’s smart and chic, but has the intimacy and pedigree of something smaller, grander. As well as managing three children, Eleanora greets each guest personally; over breakfast in the dining room is a good time to question this bona fide Venetian.