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Bottoms up! Our favourite vineyard agriturismi in bellissima Italia

Guest Expert

5 min read

From Tuscany’s Chianti to Veneto’s Prosecco, and Piedmont’s Barolo to Umbria’s Orvieto, the sheer variety of Italian wines reflects Italy's immense geographic diversity. And you'll know, if you’re munching your way around Italy, that the delicious meals placed in front of you taste even better when matched with a glass or two of local vino. The pinnacle is, of course, pairing your meals with wine made at the very vineyard where you’re spending the night, or week. So, we’ve rounded up our favourite agriturismi, or farm stays, from across the country where you can eat, drink, join in the grape harvests, taste test, and only wobble a few steps to a deeply comfortable bed to sleep it all off. Cin cin!

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Baglio Occhipinti

Here, in the oldest wine area in the world, is a low, handsome 1800s winery – views to Etna on one side, the sea on the other – surrounded by a young garden of olive and wild almond trees: enjoy homemade jams at breakfast (fig, tangerine, orange), aubergine parmigiana at dinner (creamy, delicious) and beautiful wine; the family’s wines are spicy, citrusy, organic and sold by Ottolenghi. Twelve peaceful bedrooms are spread across the farmhouse and annexe, mostly on the ground floor. Stroll the organic gardens which produce a bounty of vegetables, flowers, nuts and fruit, unwind by the tranquil pool, seek shade under carob or mulberry. The atmosphere is calm and soporific. Visit the baroque town of Vittoria, set off for the sea, or just stay put. You can have superb suppers in the garden, by the pool, or at a social table in the ancient Palmento. Book a cookery class and learn traditional skills.

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Biotique Agrivilla I Pini

With sustainability at its heart, I Pini is all about connecting with nature and promoting well-being. Come to get away from the hustle and immerse yourself in the informality and beauty of the farm; see organic growing and permaculture in action; taste the fresh herbs; join the grape harvest; talk to staff happy to explain their philosophy and produce. Ancient vines are nurtured, the local terroir is respected, and they produce a delightful crisp, vegan wine. Calm, uncluttered bedrooms are extremely comfortable and everyone gathers in the lofty, friendly dining room – the only spot with WiFi – with its bar and doors onto the pool patio. Meals are home-made, home-grown, vegan and organic. Dinners are amazing; candlelit, four-course affairs to linger over; conjured from the day’s garden best, served with spicy preserves, raw vegan cheeses – and sweet things. Florence and Siena are an hour away, return for a dip in the salt-water pool.

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Il Paradiso di Frassina

Over a hundred Bose speakers are planted among the vines and Mozart is played constantly – owner Carlo, plus the findings of research studies, say this helps the vines grow more robustly and also keeps away parasites. The proof is in the wine and you are treated to a private tasting at the enoteca beside your apartment – delicious Brunello. Inside you’ll find rustic furnishings, tiny kitchens for preparing breakfasts and private terraces looking over acres of vines. Spend your days lounging with a book in the shade, or cooling off in the beautiful pool. You’re surrounded by wonderful countryside for walks, or hire bikes and explore the smaller roads and villages, many with other vineyards for tasting – it’s very important to compare! There are superb markets at San Quirico d’Orcia, Buonconvento and Montalcino and thermal baths at Bago Vignoni, an ancient village with the baths in the main square. Return to your apartment for gorgeous sunsets and quiet nights.

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Agriturismo San Gallo

A beautiful Tuscan farmhouse surrounded by vineyards and olive groves in the valley below medieval Montepulciano; you’ll feel at ease immediately in the dreamy landscape. All the apartments (the ones upstairs with even better views) have original brick floors, beamed ceilings, antique furniture and wrought iron beds. There are sofas to laze with a book or simply to stare at the views; traditional tiled bathrooms have showers. Mini kitchens mean you can rustle up lunch or supper and you’re left basics as well as a welcome hamper of homemade jams, bread and coffee. The shop sells the owners’ certified Le Bertille red and rosé wine, olive oil from the estate and seasonal organic produce from the orchard and vegetable garden. Wander paths scented with rosemary and sage, borrow bikes and cycle round the lake, walk to a superb local restaurant for lunch or unwind by the lovely pool in peace.

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Agriturismo Il Palagio di Panzano

A mesmerising place: from the first glimpse as you bump along the cypress-lined road to the warm welcome from your hosts, who have produced wine here for generations, it will leave a lasting impression. In the heart of the Tuscan Conca D’Oro (Golden Valley), tucked between Florence and Siena, this ancient agriturismo encircled by vineyards and olive groves has five gorgeous apartments (two with private terraces) carved out of the original stone building. They radiate out from a sunny courtyard garden with a huge, inviting pool. Inside they are charmingly rustic: handsome furniture, original stone floors, beamed ceilings. Antiques and collectables add style; high ceilings and view-filled windows make everything feel light and spacious. Breakfast can be delivered to your door. Visit Etruscan tombs and Renaissance abbeys, rent vespas, go horse riding. Join a tour around the olive and wine groves; book a wine tasting in the cantina; hike from the door.

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Carmen McCormack

Guest Expert

Carmen is a freelance writer specialising in travel. She once lived in a bus in north Wales, skipped off to study in Barcelona, and now calls Bristol home. When she’s not tapping away on her laptop, she can be found reading (a lot), lake swimming (a little), and pottering on the allotment with husband and two kiddos. She’s currently dreaming about cold cerveza and torta in Mexico.

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