Find happiness in homemade jams at breakfast (fig, tangerine, orange), aubergine Parmigiana at dinner (creamy, delicious) and beautiful wine; the family’s wines are spicy, citrusy, organic and sold by Ottolenghi. Rosaura comes from an old Palermo family, Bruno may entertain you with his oenophilic stories, and daughter Fausta, a landscape architect, greets you warmly; they are an adorable family. Here, in the oldest wine area in the world, is their low, handsome 1800s winery – views to Etna on one side, the sea on the other – surrounded by a young garden of olive and wild almond trees. Inside: white minimalist living spaces where big lounging sofas, family antiques, art books and prints mix with open stone walls, pale terracotta tiles and a wonderful rustic stone fireplace. Bedrooms – two at ground level, two in the loft – are soothingly, spartanly white; wild flowers spill out of jugs and there’s a bath tub with a view. Visit the baroque town of Vittoria, eat well in Scoglitti, set off for the sea, return for a lap in the salt-purified pool. Marvellous.