2 days in Somerset: Cider, countryside and couture

Somerset – the land of the summer people – has an enduring magic. This is a landscape of rolling hills and wide-open skies, cider orchards and winding rivers, where medieval churches rise from the fields and narrow, hedge-lined lanes lead you from one village to the next. Life moves a little more slowly here. 

Arrival evening — Thorn Hill at sunset 

Thornfalcon Winery & Press sits between Taunton and Ilminster, perfectly placed for a weekend of unhurried exploration. Stretch your legs and walk up Thorn Hill, with a bottle of Thornfalcon’s sparkling wine or fine cider. It’s beautiful at sunset, when the light softens and the land opens out into far-reaching views across the vineyards and wider Somerset countryside stretching all the way to the Quantock Hills. 

Day One — Markets, makers and orchard country 

Start your weekend in Ilminster, a picturesque and characterful town with wonderful local food shopping. Begin with coffee and a slow circuit of its streets, stopping at the honey-coloured 15th-century Minster church before heading to our favourite cluster of food shops. Pick up provisions and local cuts at Bonners butcher and deli, browse the excellent greengrocer next door, and don’t miss the cake, flower and antiques shops on the way. 

At the heart of the town, you’ll find the headquarters and fashion haven of Temperley London. Set around a beautiful courtyard, this is the only place in the UK where you can browse diaphanous gowns, intricate tailoring and theatrically sequinned pieces from Alice Temperley’s collections and bridal range— alongside a fabulous café, bar and bottle shop.  

Spend the late morning drifting between Ilminster’s antique shops — Phoenix Rising is a favourite — or discover beautiful treasures at Dennis Chinaworks in nearby Shepton Beauchamp, a ceramics studio that fuses traditional techniques with contemporary designs inspired by William Morris and the Arts and Crafts movement, from the converted stables of a Gothic Victorian rectory. 

At lunchtime, head out into orchard country to Burrow Hill – one of Somerset’s most celebrated cider producers, and the home of Somerset Cider Brandy. On Saturdays between May and September, the orchards come alive: drinks are served from a double-decker cider bus, with food trucks, live music and the occasional acrobat or circus troupe. Browse the two lovely shops, and sit among the apple trees with a glass of something cold and local. 

Later that afternoon, make your way to Barrington, a quintessential Somerset village of stone cottages and quiet lanes. Walk through to Barrington Court, a Tudor manor house set within beautiful (and dog-friendly) gardens and parkland, the filming location for the BBC’s Wolf Hall. The surrounding barns and outbuildings are home to working local craftspeople — a goldsmith, potter, chair maker and wood carver — each keeping traditional skills alive. 

As evening draws in, stay in the village for dinner at the excellent Barrington Boar, an award-winning pub known for thoughtful, seasonal cooking. 

Day Two — Rivers, Levels and slow wandering 

Begin the day heading north towards the Somerset Levels, where the landscape opens out into wide, water-laced plains. Stop first at atmospheric Muchelney Abbey, a remarkably intact medieval monastery with cloisters and gardens, founded in the 8th century. 

From here, continue on to Langport, an ancient market town set along the River Parrett. Spend the morning browsing independent shops, hunting for antiques, or sitting by the water with a coffee as canoes drift past. If you’re visiting on the second Saturday of the month, the town hosts a brocante-style vintage market that spills through its streets. 

For a stretch of fresh air, follow the river out along the Parrett Trail — a flat, meandering walk that takes you out into the stillness of the Somerset Levels, where big skies, reeds, birdlife and water shape the landscape. 

Pick up bread from the Little Bakery, or spend an hour at the Kiln Café painting ceramics — a simple, absorbing pleasure. On your way back, stop at the Coates English Willow Centre, where willow has been grown and woven for over two centuries. Walk the sculpture trail, explore the small museum, and browse beautifully made baskets and woven creations in the shop. 

For a late lunch, stop in North Curry and settle into the Bird in Hand — a picture-perfect village pub with fabulous walks at the back of this thriving  village that overlook the Somerset hills. 

If you’re after something more refined to end the weekend, book a table at stylish  Holm in South Petherton, where the modern fine dining and tasting menus are shaped by local farmers, growers, gamekeepers and fishermen in the surround countryside. 

Sophie Brendel is the owner of holiday cottages The Coach House and The Lambing Shed.

 

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