Inspiration

A guide to exploring the Welsh Marches by train: Wild hills and medieval streets

Sawday's Expert

5 min read

The Welsh Marches, so long a place of conflict and turmoil between the Welsh and the English, is now a calm region where the gentle buffeting of cultures creates towns and villages with a unique feel. It’s full of fine food, historic buildings (some of them admittedly rather battle worn) and a lively arts scene that fills the streets with galleries and artisanal shops. A railway line winds along the border, meaning that with a slow pace and a taxi here and there, you can go hopping from ancient abbey to dramatic mine, to cosy pub, car-free and care free.

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Train travel

Abergavenny

Starting in the south offers a stop in Abergavenny, with its fascinating museum, a castle set within the remains of a Norman fortress and the atmospheric ruins of Llanthony Priory, where mist swirls between empty arches. A few miles down the road (probably a taxi, as public transport is tricky), you’ll find The Big Pit National Coal Museum, which is much more interesting than it sounds. As part of a tour, you get dressed up in full gear, with helmets and lamps, then lowered 300 feet underground to the coal face, just like the miners once did. Fascinating historical adventure for some, the stuff of nightmares for others! If you’d rather do something more surface-based, then browse the town’s various top-class eateries and delis, or even time your visit for the annual food festival, which showcases everything the area has to offer.

Stay at: Pantybeiliau House (45-min bus from station), where you’ll be perfectly positioned along the canal to go into Abergavenny one way or Crickhowell the other on a level, pleasant walk.

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Hereford

Moving north, you reach Hereford, the sort of historic town that rewards a bit of patience and knowledge, helping you dodge the newer, generic parts and discover the old gold that lies scattered throughout. You can’t (and shouldn’t) miss the cathedral, which dominates the skyline and houses the world-famous Mappa Mundi. Then for independent shops head for the aptly named Independent Quarter on Church Street and East Street, where you’ll find a host of interesting boutiques. There are pleasant wanders to be head on marked routes like the City Walk and River Walk, which showcase the city’s history and scenery respectively, while The Courtyard Theatre hosts a varied programme of performances throughout the year.

Stay at: Castle House (15-minute walk from station) a boutique hotel on the south side of the city, with a terrace right on the river

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Ludlow

If there’s one thing to remember when you’re coming to Ludlow, it’s not to snack as you travel. The town is an unparalleled destination for gourmets, where talented chefs work wonders with an incredible amount of local produce. You could easily spend a few days rolling from coffee shop to pub to restaurant, interspersing delicious stops with riverside walks and even wild swims along the River Teme, with the deep pool near the weir by Millennium Green a popular local recommendation. The town itself is steeped in history and character, with the impressive Ludlow Castle standing proudly at its heart alongside the magnificent St Laurence’s Church. If you’re looking to explore the countryside, then the surrounding Shropshire Hills and Mortimer Forest, a mile west of town, are reachable on foot if you’re happy to make a day of it.

Stay at: Crow Leasow Farm (10-minute taxi from station), a gorgeous, listed Dutch brick house where the owner welcomes you with freshly baked scones, Castle Lodge (10-minute walk from station), right next door to an ancient Norman stronghold, or Cottage at Camp Lane (10-minute walk from station), where a flower-filled garden waits down a quiet lane.

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Shrewsbury

At the most northerly point of the Marches railway line, Shrewsbury, almost completely wrapped in a loop of the River Severn, is famous for its striking timber-framed buildings and medieval streets. The castle and the abbey are also fascinating to visit, but the place is by no means a dry museum of a town. The Dingle Gardens bring a bright splash of colour, a fine selection of restaurants and cafes offer plenty of delicious drifting and if you time it right, you can feel the beat of the Shrewsbury Folk Festival. Riverside walks can carry you off into the countryside, but a stroll around the old city walls is just as rewarding and means you can go car-free for your whole trip.

Stay at: Hardwick House (10-minute walk to station), a quiet B&B, or The Lion & Pheasant (12-minute walk) a boutique hotel, both at the heart of town.

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Christopher Wilson-Elmes

Sawday's Expert

Chris is our in-house copywriter, with a flair for turning rough notes and travel tales into enticing articles. Raised in a tiny Wiltshire village, he was desperate to travel and has backpacked all over the world. Closer to home, he finds himself happiest in the most remote and rural places he can find, preferably with a host of animals to speak to, some waves to be smashed about in and the promise of a good pint somewhere in his future.

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