3 days in Pembrokeshire: Puffins, pastries and sea air

Arrival evening 

The walk up Garn Fawr is the perfect leg-stretcher after a long journey. It’s only a mile or so and gives you a wonderful sense of where you are in the world as you look out over miles of the coast and maybe see the beam of Stumble Head lighthouse sweeping over the waves or the ferry from Ireland rolling back towards Goodwick. Come back to put your feet up by the wood burner, stick something simple on the stove and truly relax into your holiday. 

Day 1 – Coffee, beaches and gardens 

Start your day by popping over to Fishguard and getting to Nourish bakery bright and early (very early indeed in the holidays) to beat the queue to the full choice of pastries and bread. Pick up a coffee from Cove Corner while you’re there. After a leisurely breakfast, head over to Porthsychan beach for a paddle in the surf or even a quick dip in the sea if you’re feeling brave. You can walk round to the lighthouse and see the bird watching centre, which was Station B (Station A’s wartime partner) in the 1940s. There are some great places round here for lunch, but I don’t think you beat coming back to sit on the patio with those lovely views. If you want to fill the afternoon, Dyffryn Fernant Gardens is a great place for a wander. It’s not on the scale of some formal gardens, but there’s something new to discover with every corner you turn. 

For dinner, I’d head for Ffwrn, a cool restaurant created in Fishguard’s old church hall. The menu is short and seasonal and the cooking superb, especially when it’s done in the wood fired oven (ffwrn is Welsh for oven) that sits at the heart of the kitchen. You might even find it’s a music night too.  

Day 2 – St Davids Day! 

No, it’s not the first of March, but a day spent in and around the UK’s smallest city. I’d start (as I start every day) with coffee, this time from Minnow coffee shop after the drive down to St Davids. Alternatively, visit their original location, a tiny kiosk on Porthclais harbour, from which you can start a lovely coastal walk to blow off the cobwebs.  

When you get to St Davids, have a nose around and visit the cathedral, obviously, but also some of the gallery spaces. Two of my favourites are the Goat Street Gallery, which is packed with the work of local independent artists, and Oriel Y Parc, which holds all kinds of events and exhibitions. It’s always worth checking their calendar. 

If you took a short walk in the morning and have the whole afternoon free, there are boat trips from St Justinians, just down the road, to Skomer island, home to a thriving puffin colony. They only take a couple of hours but give you an incredible view and informative tour of a truly wild landscape. Finish the day with a stop at Whitesands, the big beach near St Davids, maybe even picking up dinner in town and eating al fresco.  

Day 3 – History, craft and the whole universe

For the third day, I’d stay in Fishguard and keep it quiet and cultural. In Fishguard Town Hall there’s a tapestry that depicts the last invasion of Britain, in which French forces were met in the Battle of Fishguard in 1797. It’s not Bayeux big, but it’s an interesting curiosity and I love dropping in to see it as they marched up the hill right past Station A. You’ll also find Theatre Gwaun in town, which was saved by the community when closure threatened its continuous operation since 1885. The old-fashioned stage is a delight and makes dropping to watch the fabulous range of productions even more of a treat. A short drive away, there’s a working mill, Melin Tregwynt, where the Griffiths family have been weaving for over 100 years. They’re open to visits every day, no appointment needed, and the only problem you’ll face is the amount of their amazing products you’ll want to take away with you.  

The very last thing I’d do on any itinerary in this area is simply sit and stare. The region is a certified Dark Sky reserve and it really does make a difference. You could climb Garn Fawr to bookend the trip (perhaps facing away from the lighthouse) but even from the garden at Station A, the stars are a fitting and spectacular final shot of your Pembrokeshire film. 

Julia Niblett and her husband Kevin are the owners of holiday cottage Station A.

 

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