3 days in the Lake District: Fells, fire and fabulous food

Day 1 – Scenery and saunas 

Start your morning in Keswick, with coffee at any of its innumerable cafés, before hopping on board one of the launches that chug around the lake.  Hop back out at the Nichols End landing and make the short stroll over to Lingholm Kitchen and Walled Garden for brunch, with superb food against a scenic backdrop. 

Depending on how long brunch goes on and how heavy you feel afterwards, you can approach the loop up Catbells from the north and climb to its summit for even more spectacular views. Book yourself a slot in the Fellside Sauna (near the walled garden) to ease tired limbs when you get back. If you’re all hiked out by this point, take the launch on down the lake to the Mary Mount Hotel, where you can settle into the bar with views right down the water and let late afternoon ease gently into dinner time. 

Day 2 – Caverns and poetry 

On the second full day, we once again begin by the water, in Ambleside. The YHA there has a great restaurant open to the public, with seating across the road right on at lakeside. From there, you can obviously walk the shore or head off into the hills but consider heading west and visiting Cathedral Cavern. The old slate quarry, gifted to the National Trust by Beatrix Potter, has a towering central cave where the sunlight slants in from a massive square hole in the ceiling. Access, especially parking, is limited, so it’s one to think about midweek or off season. You can come back via Skelwith Force, then make your way out to Wordsworth’s home in Grasmere, for a full picture of the area’s varied history, from its industrial life to its role as an inspiration.  

Wherever you can squeeze it in, a shopping trip would be highly advisable, as we plan to fill the final day with walking. Booth’s supermarkets (there are branches in Kendal, Keswick, Penrith, Windermere and Ulverston) are a local institution where you can pick up some of the area’s wonderful produce to prepare yourself a spectacular meal for the final night. For dessert, you can always make a gooey pilgrimage to Cartmel and pick up the original takeaway sticky toffee pudding, right from the sweet source.  

Day 3 – A big finish 

It wouldn’t be a trip to the lakes without taking on at least one lung-busting, thigh-burning climb. While there are famously plenty to choose from, we love the Fairfield Horseshoe walk. It involves dragging yourself up and along (and back down) two separate ridges, with some boggy sections, scrambling and a healthy dose of potential for getting lost. It’s most certainly one to prep for, in terms of checking the weather and getting your gear in order, but the rewards are well worth it, with far-reaching views and fewer walkers than some of the more famous routes in the Lakes. It brings you back into Ambleside from the north, where you’ll find a few fine pubs to rest and recuperate before you head home to whip up dinner from all the glorious food you stocked up on the day before. 

 

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