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From the terrace, gaze on ancient volcanoes you can climb; retreat to the inglenook fire, nod off to the gurgling stream

Walk out of this traditional Auvergnat house into stupendous countryside. You can hear a gurgling stream from your bed and all around are breathtaking views of the cone-shaped puys. The 200-year-old house was once two cottages. One half retains the living room where once the family lived, ate and slept: it still has the original wooden beams, long table and inglenook fireplace where you can toast your toes and wind down after a day in the mountains. The other half, a ruin when the Haines found it, feels more modern, extra windows add airiness and light. Bedrooms vary too: ancient, crannied and characterful or light and modern. View the volcanoes from the terrace, visit local cheesemakers to sample Cantal, shower under the waterfall in the river, trawl the market in Aurillac. You can buy yogurt and goat's cheese from the farmer next door and a travelling shop comes three times a week – listen for his horn. There are guided mountain walks, some with donkeys, and adventure sports all summer, mushroom-picking in the autumn, cross-country skiing 1km away in winter. Marvellous.

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