Inspiration

Discover a slice of real Italian life: our favourite agriturismi across the country

Guest Expert

5 min read

Italy, the birthplace of the Slow Travel movement and the home of Slow Food, arguably does agriturismo, or farm stay, better than anywhere else. We love what agriturismi champion, and how the people who run them heap attention on some of the most important things in life: convivial meals, community, a respect for the environment and a celebration of local culture and history. Beginning in the mountainous north, through the beating green heart, and on down to the lively south, are farmers, wine-makers and craftspeople sharing a passion for food and hospitality with visitors. Not only this, you’ll also be warmly welcomed and hosted in comfort and style, from simple and rustic to smart and lavish.

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Regaleali Winery Estate

Rosemarie continues her family’s 180-year legacy in tending the vines, olives, almonds and orchards of this secluded estate on top of a long vineyard valley. Be prepared for the adventurous road that gets you here… all forgotten when you’re welcomed with such warmth and generosity. If you fancy eating in, dinners are homemade, home-grown and served with prize-winning wines in a conservatory overlooking vine-clothed hills and olive groves. After dinner: a nightcap on the terrace, then deep sleep induced by country peace. Decorated with much-loved artworks and ornaments, and toasty warm in winter, the two cosy bedrooms have colourful bedspreads and wooden furniture. Breakfast is another homemade feast (fruit tarts, ricotta cheese, lashings of coffee). Each season offers its own delight: come for walking in spring, float in the pool in summer and soak up the beautiful colours and warm, fragrant air of autumn.

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Villa di Campolungo Agriturismo

Start the day on the terrace and thrill to the view at this eco-friendly farmhouse, halfway up the Mugnone valley, in the hills of Fiesole (only 13km from Florence). Enjoy a perfect macchiato and Silvia’s home bakes… you may like to book onto her cookery course. The agriturismo grows 1,500 olive trees, and the landscape hasn’t changed for centuries; breathe in tranquillity and calm. Fiesole is a lovely hilltop town with a history that goes back to the Etruscans, and has a breathtaking view of Florence’s Duomo. Book dinner at ‘Vinandro’, a great little osteria off the main square. Then drive the scenic route home along Via Bosconi. Return to big elegant bedrooms with books, beams, beautiful linen, and hand-dyed, hand-woven fabrics. Water’s from the spring, energy is from the sun, and the olive-oil soaps are theirs. Take a nightcap to the terrace – the sunsets are a glory.

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Filippo de Raho- Agri Bio Relais

Through the olive groves to this white villa-esque building which once housed the farmer, his helpers, the animals and all their equipment. With high ceilings, white walls and antique family furniture, you’ll still feel the history. Bedrooms, two downstairs, three above and two suites in a separate building, have fine cotton linens, wrought iron beds and speckled marble graniglia floors. Breakfast is served in front of a wood-burning oven, or in the citrus grove in summer. Try the local cheeses, caciocavallo or burrata with prosciutto and home baked bread. Fresh tarts and pasta frolla cakes wait for the sweet-toothed plus omelette and eggs as you please. Lunch is open to the public: traditional pastas, maccheroni with fresh ricotta and tomatoes, orecchiette with turnips. Find a shady spot by the pool for a doze, wander the garden for figs, palms, almonds and prickly pears. Join a course, come in autumn for the olive harvest.

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Agriresort Poggio Casciano

Being one of only 15 guests on a legendary wine estate, only 12km from Florence, feels very special indeed. This is quintessential Tuscan wine country, with views of perfectly lined vineyards on the surrounding hills. A 14th-century home has been converted into an agri-resort with two elegant sitting rooms and a billiards room. Breakfasts include local fruit, cheeses, ham, bread and three different types of cakes and tarts, plus a la carte items at no extra cost (eggs, pancakes, omelettes), served on the small front terrace or next to the fire in the frescoed dining room. Spend the day touring Chianti; return to stroll the landscaped gardens, designed by Pietro Porcinai, or marvel at the panoramic views from the infinity pool. Stay in for dinner at the estate’s excellent locanda, taste wine or sign up for a cookery class; you can witness the wine harvest in autumn or search the woods for truffles.

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Biotique Agrivilla I Pini

An extraordinary, inspiring place an hour from Florence and Siena. With sustainability at its heart, I Pini is all about connecting with nature and promoting well-being. Come to get away from hustle and immerse yourself in the informality and beauty of the farm; see organic growing and permaculture in action; taste the fresh herbs; join the grape harvest; talk to staff happy to explain their philosophy and produce. Calm, uncluttered bedrooms are extremely comfortable and everyone gathers in the lofty dining room – the only spot with WiFi – with its bar and doors onto the pool patio. Of course meals are home-made, home-grown, vegan and organic. Dinners are amazing; candlelit, 4-course affairs to linger over; conjured from the day’s garden best, served with spicy preserves, raw vegan cheeses – and sweet things. Swim in the salt-water pool and sleep deeply in rural peace.

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Carmen McCormack

Guest Expert

Carmen is a freelance writer specialising in travel. She once lived in a bus in north Wales, skipped off to study in Barcelona, and now calls Bristol home. When she’s not tapping away on her laptop, she can be found reading (a lot), lake swimming (a little), and pottering on the allotment with husband and two kiddos. She’s currently dreaming about cold cerveza and torta in Mexico.

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