Places to stay for food and drink lovers in Brittany

Fresh from the harbour in Audierne

For seafood straight from the source, head west to Audierne, a working fishing port on Brittany’s rugged Finistère coast. The town and its surrounding villages are a good place to experience the region’s relationship with the sea, with local fishermen bringing in crab, lobster and langoustines, as well as the line-caught seabass for which Audierne is particularly well known. At the twice-weekly market, you can pick up local produce to cook yourself, or simply find a restaurant around the harbour and let someone else do the hard work. In Esquibien, just outside Audierne, you can pick up croissants and crêpes before heading out for a coastal walk, while back in Audierne there are plenty of places to eat, shop and linger by the harbour.

Stay at: Le Sémaphore de Lervily, a spacious retreat perched near the Pointe de Lervily, just outside Audierne. Both spaces have cook’s kitchens, so you can make the most of whatever catches your eye at the local market. There are sea views from almost every room, the GR34 passes the door and the beach at Plage de Trescadec is a five-minute walk away. For something particularly special, head towards the Pointe du Raz for dramatic coastal views before returning to your sea-view kitchen for dinner.

Sublime seafood 

Brittany is justifiably proud of its culinary wealth and cuisine. The rugged Breton coast teems with an abundance of seafood and even the smallest villages have neighbourhood restaurants that serve up hearty daily menus packed with all this goodness. Food and dining is taken seriously on this side of the Atlantic and meals are a substantial and leisurely affair, even at lunchtime, when the menu du jour reigns supreme. If you’re an oyster fan, head to the harbour village of Cancale, near St Malo. Oyster beds stretch as far as the eye can see and you can pick up half a dozen from stalls on the seafront or pitch up at an unpretentious restaurant in the pretty port area. Wash them down with a cold glass of crisp Muscadet. 

Stay at: RozVen – La Villa de Colette, a beautifully restored former holiday home of French writer Colette, tucked among the pines near Saint-Coulomb. The house is close to the coast and well placed for exploring Cancale and Saint-Malo, while a generous welcome basket of local treats, including cider, Bordier butter, bread, crêpes, cheese and pâté, gives you a taste of Brittany before you’ve even unpacked.

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A taste of the Pink Granite Coast

The Pink Granite Coast is one of Brittany’s great places for eating from the sea. Around Saint-Quay-Perros, Perros-Guirec and the surrounding villages, you’ll find seafood restaurants, local markets and shops selling the day’s catch, making it easy to turn a day exploring the coast into a very good dinner. Oysters, shellfish and generous seafood platters are very much part of the local food scene, best enjoyed with a bottle of something chilled and plenty of crusty French bread. The area is also rich in other Breton specialities, from buttery pastries and crêpes to local cheeses and traditional puddings. Take a morning walk, stock up at the market and settle in for a long lunch, or let someone else do the cooking altogether.

Stay at: Manoir des Petites Bretonnes – Louison, a lovely old stone cottage, where food can be brought straight to your door. Order a seafood platter with wine and bread, followed by Breton prune pudding, or start the morning with a breakfast hamper of baguette, butter, jams, pastries, homemade crêpes, yoghurt and fresh fruit. There are shops, markets, restaurants and the coast within easy reach, so you can spend your days and evenings eating very well.

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Michelin stars and fine dining

It’s entirely possible to eat your way around Brittany in style. Alongside its traditional crêperies, seafood restaurants and bustling markets, the region has a wealth of Michelin-starred and recommended restaurants, with local produce at the heart of many menus. Brittany’s medieval capital, Rennes, has a particularly vibrant food scene. Its markets are laden with seasonal produce from across the region, much of which finds its way onto the menus of local restaurants. Over on the north coast, elegant Dinard combines Belle Époque charm with a fine sweep of sandy beach, and you can settle in for a special meal at one of its smart restaurants before a stroll along the seafront. For something a little more tucked away, the villages and estuary landscapes around the Rance offer plenty of opportunities to eat well while exploring Brittany’s quieter side.

Stay at: Les Pieds dans l’Eau, an elegantly restored mariner’s cottage with sweeping views across the ever-changing Rance estuary. In nearby Pleudihen-sur-Rance, you’ll find a bakery, Italian deli, organic cheese maker and greengrocer, while Le Cale de Mordeuc is practically on your doorstep, opposite the house. Spend the day exploring the Rance by foot or boat, then pick up something delicious locally and settle in beside the water.

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Eating like a local

Food is woven into everyday life in Brittany, from the boulangeries and butchers of small towns to the local produce that makes its way onto restaurant tables and into home kitchens. Around Merdrignac, you can pick up everything you need for a picnic or dinner from the town’s independent shops, then head out into the surrounding countryside for a walk before settling down to eat. It’s a holiday that revolves around good ingredients, long lunches and taking your time. For an easy introduction to Breton cooking, look out for local specialities in the markets and shops, like cheeses and terrines, pastries and cider. Or simply find a good restaurant and let someone else take care of dinner.

Stay at: Ivy Cottage, a characterful former groundskeeper’s cottage in the gardens of a grand manor. Your host, Anoushka, serves two or three-course dinners in the evening, including a roast on Sundays, as well as generous breakfasts. There’s also a welcome hamper with local cider or fizz, homemade jam, cheese, biscuits and terrine. With a kitchen and patio of your own, you can cook for yourself when you fancy it, or let Anoushka do the work and settle down to dinner among the roses.

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