The luxury of so much space and light in Paris is worth every one of the four flights to this top-floor flat. Don’t miss the neo-gothic portal as you turn the key in the 1950s lock. The generous luminous hill-top place has sky to the front, sky to the back: early birds can watch the sun rise in the east, birds of all sorts will glory in the evening light-and-cloud show in the west. Inside, you know it’s Ann’s home: all is white, antique meets modern, oak floors gleam, eclectic pictures spark interest. Spread yourselves in the big front bedroom – there’s masses of cupboard space – or the more intimate back room, kick off your shoes (the friend below who showed you in will bless you for this) and waltz round the living room. The newly-modernised kitchen has a contrasting rustic table and a window onto the sitting room so the cook can join the conversation (no microwave, no telly). The bathroom has an excellent bath/shower and there’s a second, separate loo. Explore the cafés of lively Gambetta, visit celebrities in the Père Lachaise cemetery, hop on a bus or a metro – it’s 15 minutes to the centre. A civilised place.