Wineries and vineyards: 7 Italian escapes for wine, warmth and welcome
Sawday's Expert
5 min read
An Italian vineyard is more than a place where wine is produced. It’s an expression of the local culture, a celebration of the soil and in many cases the living history of a family. Here are a few of our favourites, where all those cornerstones of Italian heritage come together to welcome you with warmth, surround you with style and fill you with the flavours of their distinctive regions.
Filodivino – Marche
Verdicchio is the wine that most embodies the Marche region of Italy, having been grown in the mineral-rich clay soil of the region since around the 7th century. Modern Verdicchio began being crafted in the 60s and while its distinctive slightly bitter, almondy flavour has yet to gain household name status, it’s definitely worth checking out. At Filodivino, they make five versions, three (Classico, Superiore and Riserva) which meet DOC label standards, one which is aged in clay amphorae, and a fifth which is a sparkling take on the beloved grape. Tastings take place in the stunning, architect-designed winery before you head back to beautiful rooms which meet perfectly at a point between old farmhouse and boutique hotel.
Podere Monti – Montepulciano
If there are three things that define Italian life, they’re wine, food and family. Podere Monti showcases them all, with Alberto, a trained chef, working the kitchen and introducing you to all that goes on at the estate, which his grandfather rescued from ruin decades ago. His mother runs every aspect of the family business while his father, at their winery, Croce di Febo, crafts superb examples of the Montepulciano on nine parcels of land, the produce of each of which is harvested and processed separately, preserving its unique flavours.
Podere Orto – Lazio
Stanley Tucci put a stop in at this lovely old farmhouse on his TV tour of Italy and it’s very easy to see why. There’s a genuine warmth in the welcome from Simona and Giuliano, and a timeless, classic feel to the place itself. Their wine is created from Moscato Bianco, Procanico and other native varieties but even they find it hard to give tasting notes. Their process means that each harvest, each year can be wildly different in profile – something which they celebrate. When you stay here, the wine is simply the centrepiece of an introduction to the area’s produce. You’ll find honey, ham, cheese and all sorts of seasonal fruit to delight the palate and give you a true taste of the specialty of the area known as The Trivium, where Lazio meets Umbria and Tuscany, with Podere at its exact centre.
Locanda Casanuova – Florence
Lovingly restored by Ursula and Thierry over the last 50 years, Locanda Casanuova offers a generous and warm experience of Tuscan hospitality and wine, and yoga too. Strolls around the estate take in the vineyards, olive trees and gardens, with over 80 varieties of roses to be discovered as well as the organic produce that fills the menu of the farm’s restaurant. The Sangiovese and Vermentino wines in which they specialise can be enjoyed as part of the weekly winery tastings and tours or alongside plates of freshly made pasta, zucchini fritte from the garden and parmigiana under the vine-tipped pergola.
Castello di Santa Cristina – Lazio
Remarkably, the one thing you won’t find on this 250-hectare estate is their own winery. This is an internationally renowned equestrian centre and, either on horseback or your own two feet, you can explore woods, gardens and olive groves. Discover the tennis court and the football pitch and the yoga studio, or head down the road to Lake Bolsena for watersports and swimming. But this is a winery guide, so of course there’s one down the road. Fattoria Aldobrandesca lies on volcanic soil at the foot of the ancient town of Sovana, and owner Antonio can arrange the tour or lend you an e-bike so you can zip through the countryside to discover it for yourself. Just beware you don’t end up weaving your way back!
Masseria Montenapoleone – Puglia
As well as the red and rosé wines produced at this Puglian masseria, the olive oil gin is not to be missed. Surrounded by olive trees, figs and vines, Giuliano and the estate’s team of farmers and craftsmen harvest and produce incredible food and drink to share with guests. Whether your appetite stretches to the chef’s ten-course tasting menu or a simple aperitivo, both can be enjoyed al fresco in the vineyard with the Adriatic sea on the horizon and a glass of their Susumaniello “Primi Passi” red wine. Or if you fancy getting stuck in and getting your hands floured and dusty, join one of the masseria’s cookery classes and learn how to become a massaro.
Agriturismo Il Palagio di Panzano – Chianti
Encircled by vineyards and olive groves and with the scent of rosemary, lavender and thyme drifting on the air, these five apartments and family-run winery are the very picture of classic Tuscany. The food and drink live up to the postcard image too. Valentino the chef, who has worked at Il Palagio di Panzano for over 20 years, specialises in traditional Chianti dishes designed to match and celebrate the winery’s produce. Recipes come from what is in season, fresh and delicious, accompanied by freshly baked bread, pasta and of course a glass of the winery’s Chianti Classico or Sangiovese wines.
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Christopher Wilson-Elmes
Sawday's Expert
Chris is our in-house copywriter, with a flair for turning rough notes and travel tales into enticing articles. Raised in a tiny Wiltshire village, he was desperate to travel and has backpacked all over the world. Closer to home, he finds himself happiest in the most remote and rural places he can find, preferably with a host of animals to speak to, some waves to be smashed about in and the promise of a good pint somewhere in his future.
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