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Arcadian grounds for this vast estate with miniature zoo and kind staff. Pools, saunas and satellite TVs abound, the coastal train is close

Fifty hectares of vines, fruit trees, modern statuary and miniature zoo: Quinta dos Vales is magnificent. This dream kingdom of a German owner, set between the touristy west beaches and the cool surfing coast, is an unusual marriage of exotic art, goats, pigs, llamas, deer and some very fine wines – note the courtesy gift of three bottles and a basket of fresh oranges. You get several properties here, each one recently renovated, each one top-notch. The large villa, resplendent in white and terracotta, stands in its own spacious garden, up from the gleaming wine distillery and the tasting hall. The modern apartments, sharing an infinity pool, lie below; to one corner is the farm cottage. In contrast with the sun-dappled fig trees and the arcadian surroundings, pools, saunas and satellite TVs abound. A repro modernity prevails, bathrooms and kitchens are slickly contemporary and staff are kind. Stock up with provisions in the village of Estômbar, meet the locals in the restaurants and bars, and catch the coastal train; it appears to fly across the water, so close are the tracks to the sea.