The 1930s inn sits opposite the medieval church and next to the ruins of a 13th-century castle, its bar happily occupied by friendly locals. At 950 metres, the village has lovely views over fields and forests, stretching to the peaks of the Auvergne and Le Mont-Dore. You’ll find pure mountain air, a slow pace, and a place to stay with a slice of pizzazz thanks to owner Peter.
It hums with unpretentious good looks, young staff, seriously delicious, locally-sourced food with homegrown vegetables and natural wines – the only sort served here. Upstairs, tall windows light old parquet, white walls and warm old furniture in plain simple rooms. One room above the restaurant is a library/sitting room and there’s a meadow with farmyard animals and fruit trees over the road.
Borrow bikes, ask for a picnic and head for a swimming lake (25 minutes), explore Brioude, or Ambert (45-minute drive) for weekly produce markets.