The 1930s inn sits opposite the medieval church and next to the ruins of a 13th-century castle, its bar happily occupied by friendly locals. At 950 metres, the village has lovely views over fields and forests, stretching to the peaks of the Auvergne and Mont Dore. You’ll find pure mountain air, a slow pace, and a place to stay with a slice of pizzazz thanks to new owner Peter, fresh from his restaurant success in Bristol. It hums with unpretentious good looks, young staff and seriously delicious, locally-sourced food. Upstairs, tall windows light old parquet, white walls and warm old furniture in plain simple rooms – a 1930s inlaid bedroom suite dressed in pure white linen, a deep and friendly armchair. One room above the restaurant is a library/sitting room and there’s a meadow with farmyard animals, veg plot and fruit trees over the road. The pretty, old-style restaurant – country furniture, check cloths, crinkly lamps, a fascinating mixture of old crockery – is the place for cuisine du terroir, all freshness and taste. It’s a perfect focus for revived community life and a boon for travellers.