From high on the slopes of smoking Etna you can see snow under your feet, green meadows and sparkling blue water, all in one view. The island laid out below you is full of flavour – smoky wines rich from the volcanic soil and a cuisine of salty fish and fragrant herbs served with energy, humour and flair. There are tiny fishing villages, rattling railways and shady olive groves, all full of people glowing with la gioia di vivere (the joy of living).