One of our favourites: an 18th-century mansion that has become a luxurious but unstuffy, family-run hotel. Local hardwoods and earthy colours have been introduced with a flourish: find smartly dressed beds, gleaming parquet, a Deco rug, contemporary art. Each room is different, with deep coloured stuccoed walls, big old rafters and Bauhaus or Glasgow School furniture; the Tower Room is built for romance with its own roof terrace. There’s a soaring steel sculpture in the courtyard, a chic outdoor space with original wraparound wooden balcony transformed by terracotta walls, white armchairs and potted plants. And a restful sitting room with lots of books on art and photography, candlelit dinner by the pool, and breakfast as late as you want. You can swim seriously in the saltwater outdoor pool on the front, or plunge into the natural rock pools with their dramatic backdrop of mountains rising steeply behind the old town. Wander the higgledy-piggledy narrow streets to find a superb public garden with sculptures, and a square with two interesting old churches.