The setting is magical, the walks are outstanding, the greeting from the Bernard family, who bought Les Florets 60 years ago, is heartfelt. It sits at the foot of the majestic Dentelles de Montmirail, a small range crested with long, delicate stone fingers in the middle of Côtes du Rhône country. Over 40km of clearly marked paths call you, so appetites build for sublime food served beneath plane, chestnut and lime trees on the almost theatrical terrace; the low stone walls are bright with busy lizzies and the peonies were blooming in March. You’ll also sample some of the wines that the family has been producing since the 1880s. Brightly-coloured corridors lead to simple but well-organised, well-renovated rooms, some with traditional florals, others in taupe and ivory, some housed in chalets above. Good bathrooms but no mozzie meshes or air con. We liked the quirky ceramic soup tureens in reception, the scintillating glass carafes in the warm red dining room and the beautiful new hillside pool. All this, and the wine list a work of art. Book well ahead, people return year after year.