There are good reasons why artists still live in this village, tucked in behind the Sacré Coeur, that giant marshmallow of a church. It could be the views over the rooftops of Paris, or the meandering little streets, or Montmartre’s transformation at dusk as bistro, bar and club come into their own. It deserves much more than an afternoon visit so book into this little jewel and the secrets of this rediscovered neighbourhood will be revealed. Just up from Amélie’s celebrated café, tucked into a sweet side street, the entrance is discreet. Elegance and intimacy blend in the lobby with fireplace and antique desk; the sofa, the period chairs and the curtains are an extraordinary mix of rich fabrics; the small trellised patio set with sunny yellow garden furniture is the cherry on the cake. It feels like someone’s home and anglophone Vincent knows every café and gallery by heart. In the rooms, find deep armchairs, quilted headboards and curtains in quiet pastels or reds, pinks and greens, mixed and matched with care. The mattresses are dreamy, the staff are delightful; this is simple luxury at its best.