An imposing Victorian building sitting solidly on the roadside of this tidy, sleepy village: views are to bare rocky hills in a wild dramatic landscape criss-crossed by dry stone walls and dotted with sheep. Friendly Kate will show you inside. There’s a guest sitting room, light, fat-cushioned and cosy, and a bar with pale walls, two open fireplaces, solid tables and wooden floors. You dine like a lord in the bright dining room: Aidan’s award-winning cooking is informed by gorgeous local ingredients from land and sea. Bedrooms are painted in soft Farrow & Ball colours, with crisp white cotton duvets and warm wooden floor boards. Each room is different, some face the road, all have good new mattresses and, for those who prefer, there are three on the ground floor with French windows onto private ‘sitting out’ spaces. Bathrooms are all shipshape with tongue and groove panelling and thick towels. Come early in the year for wild flowers. Here, at the gateway to The Burren, walkers and botanists will be in heaven; for surfers, Fanmore and Lahinch’s beaches are close.