Here is a rare beast, a smart little hotel bang in the middle of chaotic old Palermo. Breakfast is organic, local and seasonal and a lot of thought goes into sourcing (bread and pastries made with stone-ground flour, coffee roasted by local specialists). Your host, gentle, earnest Giorgio, and his partner Vittorio are totally committed to not running a banal boutique hotel. They have gutted and refurbished the place, fitted energy-saving devices and trained their small team to understand their eco-principles. One or other should be there to welcome you. So take the small lift or the wide marble stairs to the seventh and top floor of the unremarkable 1950s building and settle into your all-new, cleancut, soberly-furnished room – white and coloured walls, soft taupe bedcovers, wall-mounted tellies, possibly a pot-planted terrace high above the street – each with a lively work of art, a smart shower room and organic bathroom stuff. That super breakfast, which includes cheese and cold meats, will be served in the small dining room or on the terrace. Scamper along to the joys of Palermo on foot.