What strikes you on arrival are the impressive gravel gardens with their palms and maritime pines, and the glittering views across the sea to Talamone. This family house is a step back in time, to a gentle age of old-fashioned charm; now Catarina oversees its running. The apartments have their own gardens; the villa bedrooms are lofty, light, spotless, sober and were furnished in 1935: veneered furniture, antique fabrics, framed pictures (and TV and WiFi!). One has a terrace, all have beautiful, decorative, terrazzo tiles… Great-aunt Zia Ernesta lived in the room with the angel frescoes for most of her life. Modern bathrooms are excellent; views are to the garden or breathtaking sea; you can see Corsica on a fine day. While away the morning on the terrace and make plans: a family friend can take you out on his boat to fish and swim. Beaches and mile upon mile of surf are a hop away, and you can walk the full mile to Talamone. In summer you dine, very well, al fresco; in winter under a chandelier of antlers and pine cones. An unusual house in a magical setting.