Pungent pine on the nose and the rocky shoreline – 40 metres away – send you spiralling down to a cove. What first strikes you as an ancient establishment was in fact built by an eccentric millionaire in 1916. Forget the unpacking, just make a beeline for that special little table and chairs on a pine-needled carpet and gaze out to sea. Scuba divers are in paradise, as are walkers. Unfold the maps on offer and head off from the front door – paths lead to major trails that follow the spectacular Costa Brava coastline. At the end of the day, drift up to five simple, pretty bedrooms in soothing tones; no fans, so fling open the windows to make the most of the breezes. The whole feel of this charming little restaurant with rooms will win you over; the food is the best of Catalan and, if you’re lucky, the prickly local rock fish, rascassa, will make its appearance at dinner. As light fades, easy music wafts through the bar and beyond – ‘chilled’ is the word – until the flamenco hits the terrace on a sultry summer night. Peaceful and quiet in low season, the pace hots up in July and August.