Le Château de Mazan, Mazan, Vaucluse
The Marquis de Sade’s father and uncle were born here, an unexpected connection, given the luminosity inside. The château sits in an appealing little town at the foot of Mont Ventoux. This is a family hotel and Frédéric, who speaks good English, runs a smooth team while his mother does the fabulous décor, each room an ethereal delight. Ground-floor bedrooms have French windows to a private sitting area, a couple have their own terraces. Try the restaurant, the chef has worked in starred establishments and is keen to win his own.
Château de la Côte, Brantome, Dordogne
Château de la Côte appears out of the trees as you climb from fields of sunflowers to the hilltop where it sits. The rooms have a dignified sense of age, with wood panelling and original stone walls, while the suit of armour in the corridor and the scale of the fireplaces show off the family’s heritage. In one tower suite, a private roof terrace where meals can be served is accessed via the bathroom – a tricky scramble but well worth it. The lawn, for anyone who doesn’t fancy climbing for their breakfast, is an achingly beautiful spot to sit and take in the lovely Dordogne and a coffee to start the day.
Domaine de la Tortinière, Montbazon, Indre-et-Loire
The dark spires on this château above the Indre are surreal enough, but the most surprising thing is that such an impressive building is home to a warm, friendly, family-run hotel. There’s an outdoor pool on a huge lawn that slopes down to the woods, rowing boats on the lake and an underground passage to the dining room in the orangery, but you’ll feel like you’ve dropped in on old friends. The owners are genuinely attentive and good natured, taking every care to ensure your stay is peaceful and harmonious. It’s a great lesson on how the classic château has been refreshed and reinvigorated.
Château de Voudenay, Voudenay le Château, Côte-d’Or
When owner Cécile bought this 12th-century château, it was a shell with no stairs or ceilings. She used that blank canvas to create an innovative, modern version of the château. In places, the walls have been left with exposed rough stone, in others, fresh white rooms have mattresses on the floor and striking paintings. Mismatched furniture, including a chunky billiards table, is scattered round the house with floral sofas and plastic bucket chairs under crystal chandeliers. It feels part impoverished artist’s studio, part chic hotel and entirely French in its strong sense of character.
Château de Canac, Rodez, Aveyron
This turreted red stone château is the absolute epitome of the grand French country house. Its heritage is so lavishly displayed that it’s almost playful. There are chandeliers in nearly every room, fireplaces as big as garden sheds, gilt-framed oil paintings and coats of arms on the roll-top bath tubs. The Busset family are the ones behind the décor, having restored and revamped the old house while retaining its classic feel. You might bump into grandma in the salon and you’ll definitely meet father and son team Hervé and Henri, the former a Michelin-starred chef and the latter your genial host. They make meals worthy of the setting but served without a hint of stuffy formality.
Vive la France
This article is part of Vive la France, the home of inspiring itineraries and stories from travel writers and our team, to help you plan your next French adventure.