You are perched at the summit of teetering Castiglione, with views from every angle over rooftops and vineyards all the way to snow-topped Etna. Inside is on three levels: find a luminous art-and-sculpture-filled living room with French windows, plenty of comfortable sofas, bronze lamps and Modica stone floors; a dining room with an antique table and a gorgeous collection of pea green china plates. The suite is huge and views from here are stunning, the second bedroom is nicely private on the next level up, and the Cave Room on the ground floor is carved from the sandstone rock. Bathrooms are sparkling and tiled, towels are thick and fluffy. You’re looked after by the housekeeper, Maria – she will make cakes and breads to order, and can cook you a delicious Sicilian supper too; breakfast on the terrace overlooking the volcano is special indeed. It’s tempting to stay put but there’s much to discover nearby: Castiglione has ancient Greek origins, Byzantine churches and a fortified tower; Etna can be explored on foot, horseback or jeep; local wine tasting is a must. Owner Denise lives on site in another building and can give wise counsel.