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Bacon butties and traditional stotties: our owners’ favourite lunch spots in Northumberland

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Carmen McCormack

Guest Expert

5 min read

Northumberland’s pristine coastline is crowned by crumbling castles and ancient ruins, but iInland it is no less beguiling. Visit for vast, untouched landscapes, remote walking trails and gloriously dark skies. After you’ve pulled on your boots and done a day of exploring you’ll need somewhere warm and comfortable to rest and refuel, probably nothing too fancy, just a decent homemade slice of quiche, a doorstep butty or a flaky sausage roll. And luckily, Northumberland reigns supreme when it comes to comfort food. We’ve rounded up our owners favourite pit stops as well as some gems unearthed by our team on their trips up north.

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Barter Books Station Buffet, Alnwick

Recommended by Terri, owner of The School House, Kidlandlee

Barter Books is a rare find. Located inside a magnificent old Victorian railway station you’ll find one of the largest second hand bookshops in the UK. With floor to ceiling bookshelves, you can spend a happy afternoon browsing and curling up on a comfy sofa with an interesting tome. Run by Mary and Stuart, they’ve worked hard to breathe life back into this grand building since its gentle decline after the last train pulled out of the station in 1968. The Station Buffet is the icing on the cake, a homely place with open fires to keep you snug and some serious comfort food on the menu. Bacon and sausage sarnies, Northumberland rarebit, hearty soups, thrice-cooked chips and more: all homemade and delicious. The perfect pit stop after a walk around the wild countryside near pretty Alnwick.

Scotts, Alnmouth

Recommended by Fiona & Tim, owners of Victoria Cottage & Smuggler’s Cottage

In the heart of Northumberland’s AONB, an area chockablock with attractive villages and towns, Alnmouth is one of the most picturesque. You’re met by a string of pretty pastel-hued houses perched above the river Aln, a wide powdery sand beach with perfect bird-spotting dunes and glorious views out to the North Sea. After a stroll, cycle or horse ride along the coastline, pop to Scott’s to pick up homemade goodies from their bursting deli counter. Treat yourself to an award-winning pie, sausage roll or slice of quiche. Pick up cheese, fresh fruit, veg and staples to cook at home, along with a decent bottle of wine. Or grab an expertly barista’d flat white and wander down to the beach to watch the waves roll in. 

The Pheasant Inn, Kielder

Recommended by Lorraine and Paul, owners of Coquet Cottage

The Pheasant is an old-world inn brimful of charm. After mucking about on the lake, cycling around it, or walking in the hills and forest you can pitch up here for an ale in front of a roaring fire or a delicious bite to eat. Food is local as can be: fruit and veg comes from the lovingly tended garden, in season, and everything else from local producers. Food is prepared from scratch, it’s not fancy but it’ll definitely put a smile on your face. Tuck into slow-roasted Northumberland lamb and a brioche and marmalade bread and butter pudding. They do a cracking Sunday lunch too.

Pilgrims Coffee, Holy Island

A visit to Northumberland wouldn’t be complete without a trip to tiny Holy Island. In the centre of Marygate, the island’s small village, is a bustling roastery, shop and coffee house. Perfect for a coffee break to fuel a walk past the harbour and along the rocky coast to lovely Lindisfarne Castle, then on to the secluded northern beaches. A gentle stroll around the Gertrude Jekyll garden is rewarding too, and there are plants and vegetables to buy in season. Cut off by the rhythm of the tides twice a day, remember to check the tide times before heading down the causeway.

The Running Fox Bakery

The Running Fox is an artisan bakery with four charming cafés dotted around rural north- east Northumberland. Serving hearty breakfasts; quiches, sarnies and doorstop melts for lunch; and spoiling afternoon teas. Everything is homemade or locally sourced and they do delicious takeaway pies and quiches if you don’t fancy cooking later. Vegans and gluten free folk are well looked after and Shilbottle and Longhoughton are both dog-friendly. You can find the original Running Fox in the tiny village of Felton near the banks of the Coquet river, the second in nearby Longframlington with a lovely big garden that welcomes dogs, the third – Shilbottle – is set in a small village on the way to Alnwick, and the fourth is in Longhoughton, very close to the coast. Longhoughton Steel is a remote sandy beach, perfect for walking, rock pooling and sea gazing.

The Rocky, near Alnwick

The Rocking Horse Cafe, better known as The Rocky, is a bit of an institution with a menu bursting with classic Northumbrian dishes like the stottie. For those who haven’t grown up in the north east, stottie is a soft round bread with a satisfying, heavy texture, which makes it the perfect vessel for an all-day breakfast open sandwich. Other menu highlights include soups, lasagne and omelettes as well as scones and teacakes. Everything is homemade or locally sourced. A few miles north of Alnwick, the cafe is bright and spacious with a sunny courtyard and a shop selling locally produced gifts, art and homewares. 

Featured places to stay in Northumberland

Coquet Cottage

Longframlington, Northumberland

  • From £110 p/n
  • Self-catering
  • 1 room for 2

Victoria Cottage & Smuggler's Cottage

Alnmouth, Northumberland

  • £250 p/n
  • Self-catering
  • 4 rooms for 4

The School House, Kidlandlee

Morpeth, Northumberland

  • From £100 p/n
  • Self-catering
  • 2 rooms for 4

Explore places to stay in Northumberland >

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Carmen McCormack

Guest Expert

Carmen is a freelance writer specialising in travel. She once lived in a bus in north Wales, skipped off to study in Barcelona, and now calls Bristol home. When she’s not tapping away on her laptop, she can be found reading (a lot), lake swimming (a little), and pottering on the allotment with husband and two kiddos. She’s currently dreaming about cold cerveza and torta in Mexico.

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