Rhododendrons form a brilliant guard of honour to escort you to the front door, and you arrive to tea and scones in the drawing room. Admire mountain views, head off into woodland, roam the gardens – the 20 acres are stunning. Inside is just as good: elegant rooms, Persian rugs, modern art, flowers, a gleaming grand piano; sunny bedrooms are luxuriously comforting. Happy hens foraging in the fields lay your breakfast eggs, artisan shops provide the trimmings. Sally and David are charming, Flora the Labrador and Chloe the cat stay behind the kitchen door until given the all clear, and there are outdoor pursuits galore.