Bright, smiling Brigitte is proud of her lovely 17th-century domaine, in the family for 100 years. An imposing stone staircase leads to wonderful big bedrooms with original parquet and grand mirrors, period beds, subtle paint finishes and 19th-century papers, and quirky treasures discovered in the attic: sepia photographs, antique bonnets, vintage suitcases. Showers are top-range Italian and the old arched billiards room makes a perfect salon. It’s unusually, richly authentic, the breakfasts are locally sourced and delicious and you are eight miles from Albi, World Heritage Site. A huge treat.