Gallán Mór – ‘Big Stone’ – named after a huge piece of rock inexplicably lodged in the back garden, bestows a sense of history on this otherwise beautifully contemporary place to stay. Overlooking the glistening blue of Dunmanus Bay are two immaculate white cottages: the house where Lorna and Noel do B&B, and a self-catering pad for six next door. Both are topped with slate roofs and dormer windows, and surrounded by landscaped lawns laced with meandering paths and hidden corners. The four beautifully furnished B&B rooms would look at home splashed across the pages of a glossy designer mag: stunning four-posters, chandeliers that twinkle between the eaves, the occasional olive-green wall. The spotless cottage is just as delightful, with restored antique radiators, comfy leather sofas and a cosy wood-burner in its open-plan living room. Caribbean Lorna and Irish Noel are a beaming, sunny, ex-London pair. The area is full of quirky villages to explore and stunning walks; and there’s a hot tub for the idle.