Off the narrow village street, through the massive gates, you enter another world: a big central courtyard set with box hedges, an ancient winery carved into the rock, and imposing walls dripping with creepers.
The elegant, airy rooms of this 18th-century masseria are vaulted in Mediterranean style – some rooms have kitchenettes. Wake to a buffet breakfast – a feast of fruits, homemade cakes, jams and fresh tomato friselle – in a lofty room that leads out to the pool.
You can eat authentically – and well – at ‘Trattoria da Picalo’, a three-minute stroll. Or set off for Castro (6km), a charming walled town with coves, views and a clifftop piazza. For dunes, sands and crystal-clear waters, head for Alimini. You’ll be there in half an hour and it’s wonderful for families.