Three generations still work this farm where Chiara’s family used to come to escape Palermo’s summer heat; get involved in one of her amazing cookery courses using family recipes – or learn to paint in the spring with award winning artist Bettina Schroeder. The town creeps ever up towards the Agnello olive groves but the imposing house still stands proudly on the hill, protecting its private chapel and a blissfully informal family interior. In the main house, high, cool rooms have superb original floor tiles, antiques and family mementos. The B&B room is plainer, has an old-fashioned idiosyncratic bathroom and olive-grove views. Breakfast is in a huge dining room or on the terrace, the dumb-waiter laden with homemade jams served on silver. The stables, now six airy modern apartments, have high, pine-clad ceilings, contemporary fabrics and good little kitchens, plain white walls, no pretensions. Most have their own terrace, all spill onto the lovely plant-packed courtyard (with barbecue), and there are Chiara’s olive oils, almonds and fruits and vegetables to buy. Joining in the olive harvest is highly recommended.