It’s a steep climb through olive groves to reach the hamlet of El Cañuelo. Perched high in the mountains, with clear views to the 25 km-distant Med, it’s a wonderfully ramshackle place, and these renovated holiday homes with their higgledy-piggledy terraces merge charmingly into the traditional village; Rafael the goatherd’s house is opposite. Not plush, perhaps the place could do with a spruce up, but El Cañuelo is as authentically Andaluz as it gets. Note the rustic on-site bar, run by the ever-obliging Manolo. The locals are encouraged to treat it as their own, and gather to strum guitars and enjoy Manolo’s amazing fish soup. The guest houses themselves – TV-free and accommodating up to 34 in three casas, plus six casitas built into the hillside by the pool – are decked with fabulous reclaimed doors and windows, Moorish fixtures and old agrarian artefacts. Kitchen-diners are cosy; Manolo ensures each is stocked with tapas staples. Step outside and you’re in a bird-sung world of bougainvillea and sunshine: take to the village trail, explore the nearby markets or drink in the spectacular views.